Friday, July 18, 2008

Pennine Way Central - based at Hawes












Sunday 29 June
The seven walking 'all the way in one go' set out from Malham and followed the classic route up and over Malham Cove, through the Watlowes valley to Malham Tarn. The day started in sunshine but the rain caught up with us at Fountains Fell - it always rains on me there. As if by magic, the moment we left Fountains Fell the sun came out but there was a strong wind. The next obstacle was the formidable Pen-y-Ghent and its summit scramble, which was scaled in fine style and all that was left was the long gradual descent to Horton in Ribblesdale and a welcome pint of tea with Matthew at the Pen y Ghent cafe.

Monday 30 June
From Horton today, an attractive walk over the lonely moorland linking Ribblesdale and Wensleydale and passing over Cam Fell and following a stretch of the old Roman road.
Not spectacular but enjoyable, an early finish at Hawes facilitated some vital 'stocking up'.

Tuesday 1 July
A classic day, from Hawes across the meadows to Hardraw and then the long, steady climb up to the summit ridge of Great Shunner Fell and then a long ridge walk with stunning views. My profound thanks to the people who put the slab path in through the peat hags I remember it without.
From Shunner Fell a rubbly descent followed to Thwaite and our lunch stop. Kearton country hotel was as welcoming and friendly as ever. From Thwaite to Keld (and waterfalls) and thence across gently rising moorland to Tan Hill Inn where we were welcomed with gruff Yorkshire good humour (or at least I think that's what it was).

Wednesday 2 July
The seven were joined by Gill, who had two gaps to fill in to complete the Pennine Way. From Tan Hill, a very soggy moorland walk to Sleightholme and the A66. From the A66, a very soggy moorland walk to Grassholme reservoir near Baldersdale. We walked an extra mile to the reservoir's visitor centre (comfy loos) where the Klix machine was broken and the kettle was not considered a viable back up - still the sun was shining and they sold magnums. Not every day can be a classic.

Thursday 3 July
A classic. Bright sunshine. A walk over green sheep pasture to reach the Tees near Middleton-in-Teesdale and then a romp through the riverside meadows, past Low Force and High Force with orchids all the way. An early finish at Forest in Teesdale. Pam got some eggs from the farm and we got under cover just as the thunderstorm which had been building all day hit. Perfect. The final piece of Gill's Pennine Way jigsaw too - congratulations.

Friday 4 July.
The seven have been joined by Ken and Violet for the last eight stages. If yesterday's walk was perfect then I don't know how to classify today. We set out across the meadows from Forest in Teesdale toward the head of the Tees. Orchids and rare alpine flora all the way. A walk across verdant moorland beside the babbling Tees below Falcon Clints took us around the corner to the breathtaking view of Cauldron Snout. A climb up the side of the waterfall and across the bridge and we were heading west across a wilderness. We found a lamb trapped in the void below a cattle grid. Ken and David managed to extract it and reunite it with mum. Buoyed by this success we crossed the Maize Beck and wandered on to High Cup Nick - spectacular and totally unexpected by the group. A sunlit descent from 'the Nick' through green pennine hill pasture took us to the attractive village of Dufton where we found both a pub and a tearoom open to greet us - it doesn't get any better than this.

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