The other half of the Newman family team; Suzanne, Heather and Phoebe the spaniel started their walk from the comparatively tranquil village of Horner, crossing the ancient pack horse bridge, and thence up the beautiful Eastwater valley before striking off up the hillside following the 'Priest's Path' to Webber's Post. From Webber's Post their route followed the beautiful 'Dickie's Path' through wooded combes and over open hillside ,with magnificent sea and moorland views, to Somerset's highest point - Dunkery Beacon - where the wind was so fierce and cold that they could hardly stand up. Not a place to linger today!
Just below the summit, slightly out of the wind, gave today's photo opportunity.
The descent of Dunkery Beacon brought them to Stoke Pero, a small hamlet with a lovely little church and a memorial to an uncomplaining donkey! Stoke Pero also has a flock of the noisiest guinea fowl you can imagine, however they are unlikely to be a permanent feature........
A steep descent to the head of the Eastwater valley was followed by a stiff climb up 'Granny's Ride' to the summit of Ley Hill (a great vantage point for spotting the native red deer), before a final descent to the picturesque Exmoor village of Porlock where the family reunited.
Phoebe very much enjoyed the rivers, streams and open moorland - it is, after all, what she was bred for - but we keep her away from the coastal clifftop walks as we suspect that somewhere in the springer spaniel lineage is a lemming.
We adore Exmoor. It gives so much variety; idyllic thatched villages, wild heather moorland, native woodland, crystal clear streams, abundant wildlife and a spectacular coast. It is one of England's best-kept secrets and we delight in showing it to people. It never fails to please.
3 comments:
Variety is indeed the word. I loved the fact that in one day, one is walking through a combe, then up on the moor, and down another combe onto a coastal path. Long vistas; quiet villages; thriving towns; historic castle; fascinating churches with historic rood screens, carved bench ends, and huge brass chandeliers - all made for an outstanding visit. Porlock had a lost-in-time feel to it. It also has Exmoor Rambler, a great shop filled with Paramo walking gear. (A guide, Frank R., from my Footpath trip in the Borders, had first recommended Paramo to me. It is excellent: light, warm, well-engineered, and waterproof.) Another great stop in Porlock, open by chance or appointment is the workshop of James Horrobin, the ironworker who made the Winston Churchill gates at St. Paul's. (We had seen his fanciful hand-wrought iron knockers on doors of Exmoor villages we had walked through, so I sought him out afterwards.)One highlight of Exmoor was the tea house at Watersmeet - best English cakes I've had in a stunning woodland setting between two streams. I did back-to-back weeks with Footpath on Exmoor and the Quantocks. The first was centered in a market town with castle at its top; the second in a quiet inn with outstanding food at the base of a small combe. Both accommodations comfortable and with excellent food. I also did an independent overnight in beyond Porlock in Lynmouth and Lynford - twin 19th century resorts with great charm.
Exmoor was my first walking holiday with Footpath Holidays some 12 years ago, at it was also my 8th. As you can tell, Exmoor was one of my favorites! The little town of Dunster is charming, and our accommodations were superb. The countryside is amazing and our walks took us across the moors, up an ascent to Dunkery Beacon and through the woods on the steep Priests' Path. Our guides were friendly and knowledgeable. It was my first Exmoor tour that prompted me to walk on 8 or 9 more with Footpath Holidays. Walking with FH is a wonderful experience, and one can not ask for better hosts than Ian and Suzanne Newman!
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